Coddiwomple Stardate 181121
We arrived at Cardigan early afternoon. Another wet day. There had been conflicting emails about our check in times at the Llety Teifi Guest House. One email said 12.00pm another was 3.00pm. The contact number had far to many digits so ringing wasn't an option. We decided to go there and find out. The closest we could park to the accommodation was 700m away. If any of you have lived or holidayed in the UK you will know parking is a premium where ever you go. Villages were built way before the concept of motor vehicles. When we finally found the Guest House no one was in attendance. We found a sign that told you how much you would be fined if you parked in there car park and you were not a guest. In small print was a web address, typed that in and found a correct telephone number and contacted them. Book in time was 3.00pm and someone will be on site.
We had two hours to fill in. We went for a drive to the mouth of the Afon (river) Teifi and had lunch, while watching all the rain come over the Irish Sea.
When we finally got into our room I started looking for things to do the next day. Found lots to do and we booked for another night in Cardigan.
Sunday, more showers through out the day. Our first stop was Cenarth Falls on the river Teifi. I read it was a great place to walk for a couple of hours. When we arrived the river was very high. Payed our £2.50 in the parking honour box. Put on our wet weather gear got out our walking poles then proceeded to walk the trail. After about 20m there was a cage lookout but no trail. Upon further investigation we found a set of steps in the distance. The path was under the torrent of water and we could not go any further. My first photograph shows the steps on the left with the trail completely submerged. We looked for ways around but absolutely no where else we could go. Being disappointed and wasting our precious coins for parking we went to the next destination. As I have mentioned before you have to pay for parking in many places using coins or use coins in turnstiles to enter areas. There have been places we couldn't go simply because we did not have the correct coins so paying for parking unnecessarily is wasting a much needed commodity.
Next stop was the Village of Cilgerran. From where we parked we needed to walk up the hill to Cilgerran Castle. We were keeping an eye on the time. It was nearly 11.00am on the 11th November. Getting close for our minutes silence for remembrance day. When we came around the corner of a lane way there was an old horse and buggy, a minister and a large group of people. They were conducting a remembrance day service which was great for us to join with them.
After the service we entered the grounds of the castle. There was no one in attendance to take our money. A sign said to enter and pay on your way out. They had been attending the service. Cilgerran Castle is another ruin that has had some restoration work done. They have put in new walkways to the turrets and great views over the river Teifi. It was first erected as a Citadel in 1092. Then rebuilt in the early 12th century by Gilbert De Clare. Then captured and seized a few times rebuilt and was classed as a ruined fortress in 1387. It was purchased by Mrs Colby in 1938 and presented to the National Trust. We spent about 45mins here. On the way out there still was no one we could pay.
After lunch it was back to Cardigan to have a look at St Dogmaels Abbey, more ruins. The Abbey was founded in 1113 for a prior of twelve monks of the Tironsian Order. The Abbey was dissolved through lack of income in 1536. Like most buildings that were left unoccupied stones have been removed for other construction uses. St Thomas' Parish next to the Abbey was built using the Abbey stones. We went to St Thomas' parish church looking for The Sagranus Stone that had been inscribed in Latin in the 5th century. We never found the stone. Sharon was apologising to all the graves we were walking over but did not appease them. When we departed, the souls of the dead pushed her down the wet stone steps where Sharon abruptly stopped up against the gate. We left with more bruises to accompany her.
Monday, I had found five things to fill in the day, before making our way to Tenby to stay the night. We arrived at Penbroke Castle at 11.00am. Took one look at the castle and realised we are going to be here a long time. Four hours later we left. There is a cave under the castle that you can enter through a spiral stone staircase. Artifacts here have been dated back 12,000 years. So this promontory overlooking the Pembroke River has always been important to man.
First construction was by the Normans' in 1093. In 1189 Richard I gave the castle to William Marshall who improved its stone defences and is much of what you see today. The castle is filled with plenty of history to read and see. There are inside walkways and tunnels to explore. The largest construction was the Keep. A Keep is a medieval panic room. It wasn't needed. The castle walls were never breached. The walls of the Keep are 4m thick.
In 1648 after a seven-week siege the castle surrendered to Oliver Cromwell. The castle had not been breached. Oliver Cromwell ordered the castle destroyed. Instead of blowing it up they allowed locals to take whatever building material they wanted. It remained ruins until 1880 when a restoration project started. In 1928 Major General Sir Ivor Philips acquired the castle and continued the reconstruction. It is still owned by the Philips Family Trust.
Tuesday we decided to stay in Tenby for another night to allow us to see what we hadn't the day before. I took Sharon down some very narrow lane ways before passing a warning sign. I asked Sharon what the sign said. She said it was something about red flags but ignored it and kept driving. I mentioned red flags usually mean live firing range. Sharon said there were none at the entrance. Then I asked what about all the other red flags flying. It was a military firing range and it was in use. We cautiously carried on to the parking area for St Golvan's Chapel where other cars were parked so its seemed okay to go there.
St Golvan's Chapel was built into the cliffs in the 16th century. In the 6th century St Golvan was being chased by pirates. He hid in the cleft of the rocks until the pirates left. He stayed and worshipped here until his death in 586.
We then made our way back through the military training area to go to Bishop's Palace in Lamphey. It was the retreat of choice for Bishops. What remains today was built between 1328 - 1347. Its luxurious life ended in 1546 thanks to King Henry VIII.
Then onto another castle ruin this time Carew Castle. Another Stoneage site on Carew Inlet. The Carew family still own the castle and lease it to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. The castle standing now was built in 1270 that replaced a stone keep. After wandering around the castle that has many renovated rooms that have full displays of a great hall feast and kitchen. We then went for a walk around the castle area. This walk takes you past the old Tidal Mill built early 19th century. It is the only tidal mill restored in Wales. Unfortunately it was closed for the season.
Wednesday and we have decided to stay for a third night in Tenby. The township has many things to see. With all the accommodation in the area it would not be a place I would like to visit in summer. I expect the area would be very overcrowded. This time of the year was pleasant. They have beautiful sandy beaches an easy walk around the coast where you have to walk through old train tunnels that use to transport coal through. We visited their local museum and wandered through the village that is built inside the old castle walls dating back to 1153.
Thursday we drove to Pont-Nedd-Fechan at the bottom of Brecon Beacons National Park. Here we went for a 7km return walk to Sgd Gwladus waterfall on the river Pyrddin. On the way we past the ruins of an old corn mill, then past an old silica mine and on the other side of the River Nedd Fechan you could just see the old Trial Level Mine. The waterfall drops 15m over a natural rock amphitheatre. When we finished our walk we had lunch at the Angel Inn that just happened to be at the end of the walk.
We then drove through the National Park and stopped for a walk around Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal. There was an old aquaduct built in 1800 and still in use today for canal boats. We stayed in Brecon that night. Unfortunately running out of time now and it would of been another great village to explore.
Friday was mainly a driving day. We stopped at one of Sharon's Scrabble friends home on the way to Leeds. We spent a couple of hours with Sarah with Sharon getting to pat and feed biscuits to her fluffy sheep.
Saturday we needed to be at Whitby Abbey by 10.30am to meet our friends Caroline and Rick. They have been over from Perth for 8 weeks for a holiday and to celebrate Ricks sister Sues 60th birthday. We arrived in plenty of time expecting they would show up at the only car park for the Abbey. What we didn't realise was they walked up the 199 steps to the Abbey which places you on the opposite side. Eventually we found each other. The Abbey was closed for the season so it was a wander around. Rick and I found the Whitby Brewing Co near the Abbey and stopped to try out the local Brew. Sharon and Caroline went to the YHA cafe for tea and cake.
That night Rick, Caroline & Sue invited us for dinner to join in with her birthday celebrations. Where we were staying was only a 15min walk. It was not worth driving because there is very limited places to park. Where we stayed doesn't have any parking bays and we have had to park the car about 200m away.
Sunday and a walking tour of 9km return with Rick & Caroline. We met at Pannett Park a five minute walk for all of us. Not a large park. There were plenty of squirrels for Dug (Sharon) to get excited over. There was an Art Gallery & Museum in the park. We had a look at the art gallery that had local artists paintings going back to mid 19th century. Then walked along the River Esk then up some stairs to where Captain Cooks memorial was. We were interested because everywhere we have travelled in the world we came across where Cook had been. Even Anchorage Alaska & New Foundland. Cook started his apprenticeship with Captain John Walker in 1746 in the town of Whitby. The house where John Walker lived in Whitby is now the Captain Cook museum. Captain Cooks ships the Endeavour, Resolution, Adventure & Discovery were all built in Whitby.
From the lookout we walked along the top of the Cliffs to Sandsend and had lunch at the Hart Inn. On the way back we walked along the beach and looked up at the cliffs.
Monday was wet. We did not do much today just a short drive up the coast to the village of Staithes. This was a small village with narrow cobblestone roads that wound around the village before ending at the mouth of Easington River. There was plenty of names referring to Captain Cook here. Would of been a nice place to explore but we just couldn't be bothered walking in the rain.
Tuesday and time to head for London. This will be our 4th stay here. Also our longest 9 days this time. We left Whitby and drove to Robin Hoods Bay a small fishing village with more extremely narrow street down to the bay. The legend of the bay is French pirates pillaged the fishing village and surrendered to Robin Hood. He then gave the pirates loot back to the poor villagers.
Then onto Scarborough. The weather was lousy but I braved the wind and rain and walked up to Scarborough Castle while Sharon stayed warm and dry in the car. The castle was closed for the season. You could still walk around the castle wall. This would have to be one of the highest castles I have been to. You got a good view over the cliffs and Scarborough. You could see their Lunar Park which is surprisingly small. All there seemed to be was a small Ferris wheel.
We dropped off our Nissan Juke at Enterprise Car Rental. They gave us a lift to the Scarborough train station. We caught the train to York then to Kings Cross Station. From Kings Cross we then caught a train from St Pancras to Cricklewood. We finished with a 15 min walk in the rain to our accommodation for the next 9 days.
We had two hours to fill in. We went for a drive to the mouth of the Afon (river) Teifi and had lunch, while watching all the rain come over the Irish Sea.
When we finally got into our room I started looking for things to do the next day. Found lots to do and we booked for another night in Cardigan.
Sunday, more showers through out the day. Our first stop was Cenarth Falls on the river Teifi. I read it was a great place to walk for a couple of hours. When we arrived the river was very high. Payed our £2.50 in the parking honour box. Put on our wet weather gear got out our walking poles then proceeded to walk the trail. After about 20m there was a cage lookout but no trail. Upon further investigation we found a set of steps in the distance. The path was under the torrent of water and we could not go any further. My first photograph shows the steps on the left with the trail completely submerged. We looked for ways around but absolutely no where else we could go. Being disappointed and wasting our precious coins for parking we went to the next destination. As I have mentioned before you have to pay for parking in many places using coins or use coins in turnstiles to enter areas. There have been places we couldn't go simply because we did not have the correct coins so paying for parking unnecessarily is wasting a much needed commodity.
Next stop was the Village of Cilgerran. From where we parked we needed to walk up the hill to Cilgerran Castle. We were keeping an eye on the time. It was nearly 11.00am on the 11th November. Getting close for our minutes silence for remembrance day. When we came around the corner of a lane way there was an old horse and buggy, a minister and a large group of people. They were conducting a remembrance day service which was great for us to join with them.
After the service we entered the grounds of the castle. There was no one in attendance to take our money. A sign said to enter and pay on your way out. They had been attending the service. Cilgerran Castle is another ruin that has had some restoration work done. They have put in new walkways to the turrets and great views over the river Teifi. It was first erected as a Citadel in 1092. Then rebuilt in the early 12th century by Gilbert De Clare. Then captured and seized a few times rebuilt and was classed as a ruined fortress in 1387. It was purchased by Mrs Colby in 1938 and presented to the National Trust. We spent about 45mins here. On the way out there still was no one we could pay.
After lunch it was back to Cardigan to have a look at St Dogmaels Abbey, more ruins. The Abbey was founded in 1113 for a prior of twelve monks of the Tironsian Order. The Abbey was dissolved through lack of income in 1536. Like most buildings that were left unoccupied stones have been removed for other construction uses. St Thomas' Parish next to the Abbey was built using the Abbey stones. We went to St Thomas' parish church looking for The Sagranus Stone that had been inscribed in Latin in the 5th century. We never found the stone. Sharon was apologising to all the graves we were walking over but did not appease them. When we departed, the souls of the dead pushed her down the wet stone steps where Sharon abruptly stopped up against the gate. We left with more bruises to accompany her.
Monday, I had found five things to fill in the day, before making our way to Tenby to stay the night. We arrived at Penbroke Castle at 11.00am. Took one look at the castle and realised we are going to be here a long time. Four hours later we left. There is a cave under the castle that you can enter through a spiral stone staircase. Artifacts here have been dated back 12,000 years. So this promontory overlooking the Pembroke River has always been important to man.
First construction was by the Normans' in 1093. In 1189 Richard I gave the castle to William Marshall who improved its stone defences and is much of what you see today. The castle is filled with plenty of history to read and see. There are inside walkways and tunnels to explore. The largest construction was the Keep. A Keep is a medieval panic room. It wasn't needed. The castle walls were never breached. The walls of the Keep are 4m thick.
In 1648 after a seven-week siege the castle surrendered to Oliver Cromwell. The castle had not been breached. Oliver Cromwell ordered the castle destroyed. Instead of blowing it up they allowed locals to take whatever building material they wanted. It remained ruins until 1880 when a restoration project started. In 1928 Major General Sir Ivor Philips acquired the castle and continued the reconstruction. It is still owned by the Philips Family Trust.
Tuesday we decided to stay in Tenby for another night to allow us to see what we hadn't the day before. I took Sharon down some very narrow lane ways before passing a warning sign. I asked Sharon what the sign said. She said it was something about red flags but ignored it and kept driving. I mentioned red flags usually mean live firing range. Sharon said there were none at the entrance. Then I asked what about all the other red flags flying. It was a military firing range and it was in use. We cautiously carried on to the parking area for St Golvan's Chapel where other cars were parked so its seemed okay to go there.
St Golvan's Chapel was built into the cliffs in the 16th century. In the 6th century St Golvan was being chased by pirates. He hid in the cleft of the rocks until the pirates left. He stayed and worshipped here until his death in 586.
We then made our way back through the military training area to go to Bishop's Palace in Lamphey. It was the retreat of choice for Bishops. What remains today was built between 1328 - 1347. Its luxurious life ended in 1546 thanks to King Henry VIII.
Then onto another castle ruin this time Carew Castle. Another Stoneage site on Carew Inlet. The Carew family still own the castle and lease it to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. The castle standing now was built in 1270 that replaced a stone keep. After wandering around the castle that has many renovated rooms that have full displays of a great hall feast and kitchen. We then went for a walk around the castle area. This walk takes you past the old Tidal Mill built early 19th century. It is the only tidal mill restored in Wales. Unfortunately it was closed for the season.
Wednesday and we have decided to stay for a third night in Tenby. The township has many things to see. With all the accommodation in the area it would not be a place I would like to visit in summer. I expect the area would be very overcrowded. This time of the year was pleasant. They have beautiful sandy beaches an easy walk around the coast where you have to walk through old train tunnels that use to transport coal through. We visited their local museum and wandered through the village that is built inside the old castle walls dating back to 1153.
Thursday we drove to Pont-Nedd-Fechan at the bottom of Brecon Beacons National Park. Here we went for a 7km return walk to Sgd Gwladus waterfall on the river Pyrddin. On the way we past the ruins of an old corn mill, then past an old silica mine and on the other side of the River Nedd Fechan you could just see the old Trial Level Mine. The waterfall drops 15m over a natural rock amphitheatre. When we finished our walk we had lunch at the Angel Inn that just happened to be at the end of the walk.
We then drove through the National Park and stopped for a walk around Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal. There was an old aquaduct built in 1800 and still in use today for canal boats. We stayed in Brecon that night. Unfortunately running out of time now and it would of been another great village to explore.
Friday was mainly a driving day. We stopped at one of Sharon's Scrabble friends home on the way to Leeds. We spent a couple of hours with Sarah with Sharon getting to pat and feed biscuits to her fluffy sheep.
Saturday we needed to be at Whitby Abbey by 10.30am to meet our friends Caroline and Rick. They have been over from Perth for 8 weeks for a holiday and to celebrate Ricks sister Sues 60th birthday. We arrived in plenty of time expecting they would show up at the only car park for the Abbey. What we didn't realise was they walked up the 199 steps to the Abbey which places you on the opposite side. Eventually we found each other. The Abbey was closed for the season so it was a wander around. Rick and I found the Whitby Brewing Co near the Abbey and stopped to try out the local Brew. Sharon and Caroline went to the YHA cafe for tea and cake.
That night Rick, Caroline & Sue invited us for dinner to join in with her birthday celebrations. Where we were staying was only a 15min walk. It was not worth driving because there is very limited places to park. Where we stayed doesn't have any parking bays and we have had to park the car about 200m away.
Sunday and a walking tour of 9km return with Rick & Caroline. We met at Pannett Park a five minute walk for all of us. Not a large park. There were plenty of squirrels for Dug (Sharon) to get excited over. There was an Art Gallery & Museum in the park. We had a look at the art gallery that had local artists paintings going back to mid 19th century. Then walked along the River Esk then up some stairs to where Captain Cooks memorial was. We were interested because everywhere we have travelled in the world we came across where Cook had been. Even Anchorage Alaska & New Foundland. Cook started his apprenticeship with Captain John Walker in 1746 in the town of Whitby. The house where John Walker lived in Whitby is now the Captain Cook museum. Captain Cooks ships the Endeavour, Resolution, Adventure & Discovery were all built in Whitby.
From the lookout we walked along the top of the Cliffs to Sandsend and had lunch at the Hart Inn. On the way back we walked along the beach and looked up at the cliffs.
Monday was wet. We did not do much today just a short drive up the coast to the village of Staithes. This was a small village with narrow cobblestone roads that wound around the village before ending at the mouth of Easington River. There was plenty of names referring to Captain Cook here. Would of been a nice place to explore but we just couldn't be bothered walking in the rain.
Tuesday and time to head for London. This will be our 4th stay here. Also our longest 9 days this time. We left Whitby and drove to Robin Hoods Bay a small fishing village with more extremely narrow street down to the bay. The legend of the bay is French pirates pillaged the fishing village and surrendered to Robin Hood. He then gave the pirates loot back to the poor villagers.
Then onto Scarborough. The weather was lousy but I braved the wind and rain and walked up to Scarborough Castle while Sharon stayed warm and dry in the car. The castle was closed for the season. You could still walk around the castle wall. This would have to be one of the highest castles I have been to. You got a good view over the cliffs and Scarborough. You could see their Lunar Park which is surprisingly small. All there seemed to be was a small Ferris wheel.
We dropped off our Nissan Juke at Enterprise Car Rental. They gave us a lift to the Scarborough train station. We caught the train to York then to Kings Cross Station. From Kings Cross we then caught a train from St Pancras to Cricklewood. We finished with a 15 min walk in the rain to our accommodation for the next 9 days.
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