Coddiwomple Stardate 180922
Our
Uber driver dropped us near the Union Station and told us to head
down a walkway which we did. After wandering around for 15mins I
checked out our offline maps and realised he directed us in the
opposite direction. Back on track we only had to wait 30mins before
boarding. We are in economy which means 4 nights of sleeping in a
seat. Amtrak seats were far more comfortable to sleep on. These
trains are 60 year’s old. Amtrak were only 50. The train has two
engines, 21 carriages and is 500m long. We have carried on two bags
of food and planned on just buying our dinner. There is an
observation deck which both of us has taken advantage of many times.
They also put on entertainment by a duet. Our first stop we were able
to get off for a stretch in a town called Hornepayne. Staff made the
announcement we would be arriving in 10mins. The town has a
population of 1000 and their train station is a two story brick
building built in 1929. Something to check out. When we arrived the
station was boarded up and derelict. Must be Canadian humour.
Our
second full day on the train we stopped at Winnipeg. Winnipeg is in
central Canada like our Alice Springs. They have a population of
800,000 and was surprised by the high rise buildings. We went on a 1
hr walking tour with Dr Phil (not that Dr Phil!) It was great to
stretch our legs and a very interesting tour about the history of the
area. 20% of the population are of French heritage and mainly live
over on the other side of the Red River. They are so French that the
main population won't even go over there because they think they will
need to speak French. The French side are happy with this rouse.
I’m
finding I’m enjoying the trip so far. In a sleeper cabin you don't
leave your cabin that much. Being in economy you meet more people and
tend to socialise more. Just like in Titanic’s 3rd
class. I’m even sleeping better than when we had our own cabin.
Last night when I went back to my seat Sharon had taken over both
seats and was snoring. I ended up sleeping in the dinning room
wrapped around a corner table with my feet elevated over the next
seat. I woke up with someone touching my feet. Another person decided
I had found a good place and started sleeping in the next seat.
It
is an extremely slow trip. Most of the time we seemed to be stopped
waiting on a siding for another train to pass. I was told by someone
before we boarded that the trip use to take 2 days. It now takes 4
days to complete. The railway line was sold to a public company and
their freight have priority over VIA Rail Canada. They are upgrading
the tracks so things should improve.
Thursday
night we had a great sunset. Most of the day was travelling through
farmland with many of the trees changing to autumn colours. The
previous day was all lakes and pines. There are less people on the
train now and plenty of spare seats available. I still chose to wrap
around a dinning room table for sleeping that night.
Friday
morning we woke up to a light dusting of snow. Now all the autumn
colours are washed out with light snow. As we got closer to the Rocky
Mountains the snow over the trees has been getting heavier. It even
snowed while we travelled along. Just love seeing the spruce trees
covered in snow it looks so Christmassy. The observation carriage is
now becoming more popular. Even the sleeper class are starting to
invade our space because their observation carriage is always full.
Us lower class aren't allowed in their area but they sneak into ours.
So rude.
We
stopped at Edmonton for a short break. A camera crew was setting up
for a scene and a few of us realised who the personality was. Michael
Portillo from his series on Great Train Journeys. He had only joined
the train that night in Saskatoon at 2.00am in the morning. He was
already leaving to get to Jasper by other means. I guess he was
worried about missing his connecting train.
As
we approached Jasper we followed along Jasper Lake. It was fantastic
views with mountain back drop with still some snow around. You don't
get this view from the Rocky Mountaineer. We were meant to have up to
3 hours in Jasper unfortunately the train was running late. Its
because of the other 8200 trains using the same line on any given
day. 45mins is all we had. Pretty town and six of us managed to get
a quick drink in at the Jasper Brewing Company.
Back
on the train we picked up another two carriages. This is the second
time our train has been extended. We now have 28 carriages and over
600m long.
16
months of sleeping on different beds and waking up with strangers. We
are finding our backs are getting quite sore. After getting up from my
4th night and 3rd night wrapped around the
dining table I realised for the first time in weeks my back hasn't
been sore. When we settle down again I think I'm going to find the
most awkward thing to sleep on so I can get a good nights sleep.
Saturday
morning was the most spectacular of the journey. One of the Rocky
Mountaineer trains also travels this section. Our train meandered
along a very rugged gorge next to the Thompson River. No snow here
just many barren steep hills with lots of tunnels. Eventually the
Thompson runs into Fraser River. Thompson River is green and the
Fraser River is brown. Where they join it is almost like a dividing
line where both colours are distinct.
I
expected this trip to be like Amtrak. You get on, reach your
destination and disembark. Along the way the staff inform you of the
history of a town or point out things of interest to be seen.
Although the train takes twice as long to cover the distance because
of all the traffic. It does give you plenty of time to take in the
views. It has been a fantastic trip and recommend travelling this way
if you are heading to Jasper to do the touristy things. Or just take
in the changing beauty of Canada and travel the whole length between
Vancouver and Toronto. Sharon has loved the trip also. She has made
more friends with plenty of new ideas for future travels.
We arrived in Vancouver two hours ahead of schedule. Kaitlyn who we met in New Zealand picked us up and drove back to her apartment. We stayed with Kaitlyn and her Dad Kevin until we left Friday Morning.
Sunday & Kevin was back early enough from work to go with us for the day to start exploring Vancouver. They drove us to Reifel Bird Sanctuary. This is a wetlands area well known for migrating birds. After spending a few hours here we had lunch at Catch Kitchen & Bar in the town of Stevenson. Britannia Brewing Company was next for Kevin and I while Kaitlyn and Sharon did the girlie shopping thing. After leaving the bar Kevin was trying to tell me of some movie or TV show filmed in the town he couldn't remember the name or what it was about. It wasn't until I saw one of the building I realised it was "Once Upon a Time" and the main street in the series. People were setting up Christmas decorations and I asked one of the workers why so early. They were preparing for a movie scene to be shot in the next couple of days. It was a Hallmark movie. One of 184 filmed this year.
Monday
Sharon and I were left to explore more of Vancouver ourselves. We
caught a Skytrain to take us to Waterfront Station Downtown
Vancouver. Their Skytrain is fully autonomous and I managed to get
what would normally be the drivers seat a couple of times. Certainly
gave a great view of the City. We were planning on going to Capilano
Suspension Bridge Park. Vancouver's Number one tourist attraction. We
caught the Seabus over to Lonsdale Quay then a bus. I started talking
to a couple and they were headed for Grouse Mountain. We decided to
go there first then the suspension bridge after. When we arrived and
payed nearly $120 to enter I decided we will be staying all day and
the bridge can wait another time. To get to the main part of the
mountain you need to ride in their gondola. The gondola holds 100
people and departs every 15mins. Once in the main village, which also
is a ski lodge in winter you can catch the chairlift up to the top of
Grouse Mountain 1250m. They had a wind turbine up there also which
has an observation deck and supplies 30% of the parks power. It
involved another cost to take up the lift unfortunately there was a heavy fog and you would not have seen anything.
Other
things to do on Grouse Mountain was to see two grizzly bears named
Coola and Grinder. Both have been in captivity since being orphaned
as cubs since 2002. They have 10 acres of land to wander around in.
After spending 19 weeks in North America and only ever seeing bear's ass'es it was nice to see them up close. We went to the theatre to watch
a short film about raising both grizzlies. They have the World Famous
Lumberjack Show. It was a very cheesy comedy show about a wood
chopping competition. The jokes were so lame you had to laugh. We did
enjoy it. There were many wood carvings to be seen also.
We
planned on meeting Kaitlyn about 5.00pm. There is a free shuttle you
can take there and back which drops you off at Canada Place also near
the Skytrain Terminal.
Tuesday
and we had planned on meeting Viv at 10.00am to go on a walking tour.
Viv was a passenger on our train from Toronto. When Viv arrived she
realised it was the same walking tour she had already been on. Change
of plans again. We decided to go to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.
We used the Seabus and bus again to reach our destination.
The
original suspension bridge was built in 1889. The land owner at the time was
tired of having to walk down then up the canyon to reach a better
hunting area a round trip of 20km. He decided to build a bridge and get over it.
Eventually new owners bought the land and starting turning it into an
attraction. They now have boardwalks, tree top walk, cliff walk,
guided talks, totem poles and the usual restaurants and gift shops.
The three of us thoroughly enjoyed ourselves here.
Then
it was onto another free shuttle and a beer or two at the Elephant
and Castle. Viv drank beer so it was good to have a drinking
buddy. Back at Kevin and Kaitlyn’s we watched an episode of Flash.
Sharon realised their coffee shop scenes are filmed in this building.
Wednesday
we went for a long walk around the waterfront to Stanley Park.
Stanley Park has plenty of trails to walk or ride a bike around. They
have Indian Totem poles also where there were many tour buses
stopped. We found out at the Capalino Bridge, colourful totem poles
are not genuine. They are only made for tourists. Genuine Totems do
not have bright colours. We loved Stanley Park and it is always great
to have parks like these so close in the city.
Thursday
we caught the Skytrain to Queen Elizabeth Park. Kevin who drives
for a tour bus company recommended these gardens. Having spent many
hours at the Brutchart Gardens on Vancouver Island he thinks these
gardens are just as good only smaller and also designed around an old
quarry. We loved the gardens and also their Bloedel Conservatory which have many
varieties of flora and birds flying free.
We
made our way back to Kevin and Kaitlyn's. Sharon and Kaitlyn went to
get their nails done while Kevin and I sank a few pints at the Firefighters Public House.
Unfortunately
time ran out in Vancouver and now it's time for Edinburgh. We loved
our time with Kevin and Kaitlyn and can't wait to see them again one
day. We hope to return their hospitality when they visit us in Perth.





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