Coddiwomple Stardate 180707

Wednesday our last day in Anchorage. After saying goodbye to those carrying on the tour of Alaska I went into town to check out their museum. We weren't told our tour was in 2 parts so 4 of us left and 1 joined.

The museum was a mix of art & history. I had spent a couple of hours there before joining Sharon for lunch. I went back to the museum after lunch it was certainly one of the best things to do in Anchorage.

Thursday morning and our 3^rd Delta flight. Also 3^rd time in Seattle. I usually don't like flying mainly we always seem to have obnoxious people on board. Each one of our Delta flights have been a great trip. The air crew have been friendly and no annoying people on-board.

Friday morning in Seattle we just filled in time watching Netflix. We didn't have to check out of the hotel until 12.00pm. After our check out it was a 1mile (1.6km) walk to Seattle’s light railway. It was back at the airport and this took us to King Street Station to get on the Amtrak Empire Builder train to West Glacier.

When we arrived at King Street Station we had to pay $10 US per bag to store them for 3 hrs, so we could walk more around Seattle.

We went and had lunch then randomly went walking to all the small parks I could find. The parks were all full of down & outs. So I rerouted and went into Chinatown. It was OK but seen it all before. Found another park which happened to be chinatowns neighbourhood garden. It was quite run down and next to a motorway and was very noisy. Decided it was time for a beer and gave up on the parks. I went looking for a dive bar and found one called Joes Bar & Grill. It wasn't far from the train station. Had a couple of pints thought it was a great bar until they played Abba. Then back to the station for our overnight train trip.

We decided on a sleeper cabin this time. It did include dinner & breakfast in the dinning carriage. The view from our cabin was spectacular as we made our way over mountains rivers & waterfalls. Then we came to an area that was more like around colorado river which is far more south. In the cabin the two seats fold back and make a bed. Then there is a bunk that folds down for a top bunk. I was on the top bunk and found it very uncomfortable.

Saturday morning the train was running about an hour late and we arrived in West Glacier at 9.05am. We were meant to have a shuttle waiting to take Sharon back to Kallispell to pick up our rental. It wasn't there. We rang and they were waiting for us at Whitefish which was one station back. Eventually Sharon got onto a shuttle which cost $50 US in the end. They gave Sharon a $10 discount for the confussion.

When Sharon finally got back to West Glacier with the car it was onto Glacier NP.

When we arrived at the park entrance there was a notice saying which campgrounds were full. Unfortunately, the one recommended and unlikely to be full was already at capacity at 12.30pm. I decided to go to the second recommendation and closer called Sprague Creek. There are 25 campsites we got the last one. Sprague Creek was on Lake McDonald and one of the nicest campsites we have been in. After setting up camp we drove to McDonald Falls another great place.

Sunday, we decided to catch a shuttle bus around the park. The bus stop was at the entrance to our campground. The main pass had only been open for a week because of snow. Luck was on our side again because it was also the first day of the season for the shuttle buses. The park is usually fully open for about 2 months of the year. We took the first shuttle of the day to Logan Pass visitors centre. The wows were back again. Not only us, I heard other passengers saying wow look over there. The road follows a canyon fed by glacial water that flows into Lake McDonald. Once you reach The Loop the road turns to the right and steep incline with views over the valley we had just been in. With sheer drop to your right & sheer cliffs on the left you pass many water falls and the weeping wall where water is cascading down the cliffs over the road. Once we reached Logan Pass I wanted to walk to the viewing point of Hidden Lake. The trail was covered in snow and we were not prepared for this type of hike. Many other people were walking the trail ill prepared walking in thongs (pluggers, jandal's, flip flops) & shorts. Looking ahead on the trail I also saw plenty of these people falling.

It was back on the shuttle to the loop trail for a short walk then onto Trail of the Cedars & Avalanche Lake. These walks were below the snow line, it was only rain we had to put up with. These are the most popular walks in the park. They are the easiest and quite spectacular.

Monday as we drove out of the park we headed once again to Logan Pass. Stopping at places we saw from the shuttle bus. Once at Logan Pass equipped this time for snow with beanie, gloves & hiking poles we headed off to Hidden Lake overlook. Sharon still wasn't confident in the snow, so I left her behind to talk to anyone she could find. On the hike I saw a grizzly bears ass in the distance, marmots & mountain goats. It was also fun watching people constantly tumbling. You must admire them, most never gave up. On the way back, I did my first bit of snow skiing. It was easier sliding down the hills using my poles to keep me upright.

After this we left Glacier NP & headed for Yellowstone NP. That night we stayed at another KOA in Canyon Ferry Lake in one of their cabins. Most disappointed this one didn’t have a love seat.

Tuesday morning, we still had 200 miles (320km) to get to Yellowstone NP West entrance. We arrived around 10.30am. We still have our NP pass, so we entered through the express lane. We needed to find somewhere to camp and this became our priority. Or we would have to leave the park at night. Given the size of the park and driving everywhere is like driving in peak hour traffic we desperately needed to find somewhere. Plus, it is summer school holidays & 4^th of July. After passing 2 x camp areas holding 320 campsites and driving for 1 ½ hours through the park I didn't hold out much hope at Indian Creek that only had 70 sites. We arrived by 12.30pm and there were plenty of sites available. The day before all these sites had gone by 12.30pm. It is a basic site but has everything we need for a couple of nights. There was also a couple of grizzly bears seen around camp that morning.

After setting up camp and our sternest lecture ever about grizzles from the camp host we drove towards Mammoth Hot Springs in the north of the NP. We stopped at Golden Gate that has a great canyon & waterfall, the name comes from the bridge that has been built 4 times on the side of the mountain.

Next stop was the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. We had seen similar in NZ around Rotorua these were certainly a lot larger. It is an interaction of water & limestone that create the terraces and are constantly changing. Then onto the visitors centre which is operating from the original fort built in 1886. The US army had been called into stop poaching in the NP.

That night we went for a drive before sunset to try & find some wildlife. We did see elk but nothing else. Someone told us they had seen black bears & bison that day.

Wednesday morning, we left at 6.00am. Sharon was complaining about the cold again. I tried to reassure her it wasn't that bad. My efforts were in vane. When we left the tent, we found the car & picnic table was covered in ice. (it was 0 degrees!! I had every right to complain it was cold.)

We headed back to Mammoth Hot Springs to take a quick look. Yesterday was impossible to park anywhere. We arrived as the sun was just rising over the mountain. Then headed to Lamar Valley stopping at a few nice waterfalls. Lamer Valley is meant to be the place to see wildlife in Yellowstone NP. You just need to get there early. We saw a few deer the odd bison way in he distance.

We then came across a lot of parked cars. We stopped to check it out. There was a black bear way in the distance feeding on a deer. So far totally disappointed but we kept going thinking about turning back because we were headed for the East exit. Then we came across a herd of bison and a few deer. Still a long way away. Decided to get out of the car and walk a closer distance to them. After this we pushed on having more confidence when we came across bison close to the road on the left and many grazing around the river on our right. We stopped and watched a while. Someone else was parked further away from us watching the bison to our right. When one of the bison on the left walked across the road and walk behind a pile of road base near this other person. Suddenly the bison appeared in front of him. He made a quick dash back in his car being totally startled. Once again you must be so aware of your surroundings here. In the visitors centre they show a video of someone getting to close to a bison. The bison tossed them up into a tree. A month ago, someone was injured by an elk. They came around a corner and startled the elk which attacked them. It is something you don't expect but you always must be aware.

Then we headed down to Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. On the way we stopped at more waterfalls and vistas. We came across many cars just stopped on the road. Sharon was driving so I got out to see what it was. I thought if it was another elk I would be very disappointed. It was a black bear with her 3 x cubs. By the time I got close enough I saw the mother and 2 cubs go over the hill. I did grab a photo of the last cub but to rushed too be a great shot.

Yellowstone Grand Canyon has the Yellowstone River running through. Some great waterfalls and amazing geology with some hot spring areas.

Next was Norris Geyser Basin. This reminded me of Iceland with all the thermal activity. Also, the smell of Rotorua.

Thursday morning, we headed to the southern section of the park. We stopped at Crystal Springs more thermal water then Roaring Mountain which didn't roar. Some small lakes that had great reflections in the still morning. Nymph Lake overlook then Norris Geyser Basin overlook.

Then finally after all these stops we arrived at where we left off the day before. We did Brink of Lower Falls yesterday today was The Brink of Upper Falls. They are both must see areas. Then Sulphur Cauldron & a fantastic one called Mud Volcano with a cave that had water & steam gushing out of a cave that looked and sounded like a dragon. There were plenty of bison just lazing around and also on pathways that stopped people from passing. The bison look and move like sloths but can sprint to 45kmh. When their tail goes up be careful they are about to charge or do a number 2 which can spray a long way. Either one get away from them.

Next stop Lee Hardy Rapids. Another fantastic stop on the Yellowstone River. Fascinating watching the trout in the water and people were throwing in insects to watch them feed.

Time was moving on, our next stop was Lake Village for lunch. Everywhere you go is absolutely overflowing with people you spend plenty of time just in finding a parking spot. When we arrived at the village it was so quiet and had stunning views of Lake Yellowstone. We bought lunch and just spent time taking in all the beauty. I asked the girl if it was always this quiet she said it was normal until a tour bus comes in.

After lunch and a very picturesque drive along the lake we stopped at West Thumb Basin. Another geothermal active area right on the edge of Yellowstone Lake. With all the thermal areas Sharon and I have seen in the world this would be one of the most beautiful we have been to. There were crystal clear hot pools some green some blue. The hotter the pools the clearer the water.

Next & last on the list Old Faithful Geyser. When we arrived, we spent 20 mins driving around trying to find a parking spot. We were about to give up on Old Faithful when we finally turned down some random road and there was a gravel area to park in. Didn't know where old faithful was we just followed the crowds. When we reached the boardwalk, there were thousands of people lining up to view Old Faithful. We were lucky it was due to erupt at 2.41pm. We only had to wait 15mins. It is a predicted time and could be 10mins either side. At 2.41 there was lots of steam and a small amount of gushing water. The Asian guy in front was annoying me. Every time something happened he would get in my way. Then I would have to photograph over Sharon's shoulder. At 2.55 still only small eruptions & we were most disappointed. Iceland geysers were so much better. People were starting to leave. I asked Sharon to talk to the ranger near us to find out if that was it & I will save the spot. The Asian guy decided to leave which gave me uninterrupted views. Sharon was still talking to the ranger when the geyser really erupted in lots of steam and gushing water. It went for a few minutes then settled down & everyone left. Can't trust nature to be predictable. The estimates were out by 20 mins.

That was it 3 days in Yellowstone NP & it was worth the effort to get there. Yellowstone has to be the most difficult and expensive for overseas visitors to reach given its location. The park is full of wildlife & some amazing natural sites. It is hard to imagine that all people know about Yellowstone is Old Faithful there is so much more to this unique park.

We never planned on staying another night in Yellowstone because I knew by the time we had finished with all the wonders it would be to late to find a camping area. I decided to find something near West Yellowstone. There was a KOA campground 8 miles (13km) out and we tried for that. It was 4.30pm when we got there. All cabins & tent sites were full. Fortunately, someone had to leave their campsite and we got their site. It cost us $49 US ($62 Au) to stay on one of the most expensive & worst sites in all the campgrounds we have stayed. Also, the worst internet but they did have a great shower block.

Friday was just a driving day heading back to Whitefish Lake to catch the Amtrak Empire Builder to Chicago on Sunday morning. Then onto New York City. I went back a different way than the one we took to Yellowstone NP. It was another great mountainous drive.

We started to look for campsites 112miles (180km) from the town of Kalispell where we had booked accommodation for Saturday night. We tried 3 sites all had full on there signs. Arrived at the 4^th one no full sign on the post. Great our luck was back. Turned into the campsite and there is a notice informing you the whole campsite is closed due too a bio hazard.

Next campsite on Wikicamps was Lake Inez. Now 83 miles (133km) from Kalispell. Did not feel confident at all. We turned down this dirt road past a boat ramp then the toilets everything looked full. Kept going down the road and found campsite No.5 empty. That was our site for the night. Only thing we had was a fire pit. No table or toilets. But a great view right on the edge of the lake. Once we set up camp I walked back to the entrance which was 15 min away to find out about paying. The notice says you must pay but there is know where to pay. It was our first free campsite since we have been in the USA. I also checked out the other campsites and found No.1 & No.2 were empty. They had a fire pit, picnic table & right next to the toilet. We hadn't noticed them on our way in because they were elevated above the road.