Coddiwomple Special No.2


I have finally done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It has taken three times staying at Snowy Water Lodge to finally make the crossing. We have been here since Sunday 21st working at the lodge. The first two days the crossing was closed due to bad weather and has been open since Tuesday. I was asked on Friday morning if I wanted to make the crossing on Saturday. There wasn’t going to be many guests that night and I wasn’t really required. Sharon was concerned she would not make the distance and declined to go. Steve the managers husband said he would go with me to do the crossing. At first, I thought he was just kidding around again but he was serious this time.

Saturday morning woke up to heavy fog and thunderstorms forecasted for the afternoon. The crossing was still going to be opened. Steve and I jumped on the shuttle bus at 6.50am. The bus picked up a lot more passengers on the way and finally started the crossing at 8.15am. To discourage people driving their cars to the start of the crossing they have put a 4-hour parking limit in place. You cannot do the crossing in this time and return to your car.  Hence why you must use a bus service.

Once off the bus there were 100’s of people milling around. Queuing up for the toilet or just waiting to start the track. On the way in we passed lots of other empty buses heading back out. We asked one of the staff of the track how his morning was going. He informed us there already was 1000 people in front of us and 1000’s more to follow. I think I have just discovered the No.1 tourist destination for the North Island. Steve and I didn’t hesitate we were on our way quickly passing all the slow walkers. I would probably be one of the slow walkers, but Steve is an ex All Blacks Rugby player and I had to prove myself against him.

Tongariro is an active volcanic area. It last erupted in 2012. The track is 19.4km long and rises at Red Crater to 1886m. The first section to Soda Springs is a gradual rise. After this section there is a sign warning you to be well prepared if you continue. If you are unfit, turn back now. There are regular rescues on this trail. There was 7 last month. The next section to South Crater is the steepest it gains 340m and you can see two previous lava flows. One from 1870 the other 1975. The next section is to Red Crater as you ascend you start smelling the sulphur. Red Crater is the active volcano. From this summit you get views overlooking the crater, Emerald Lake and Blue Lake. After the summit of Red Crater, you must descend a very well-worn unstable track. As I’m descending people around me are sliding and falling quite regularly with the occasional boulder rolling down the side of the crater. Thanks to my hiking poles I made it down safely. This is one section that needs to be investigated for safety if you are having a couple of thousand people a day tramping over this track.

After a 10min break at Emerald Lake which is just short of the half way mark we continued on our way to the finish.

3.5km from the end you get views over Lake Rotoaira where the Haka originated from then through some nice virgin forest before ending at the Ketetahi car park. It took Steve and I Five hours 45mins to complete. Our bus companies first pick up was at 3.00pm then 4.30pm. We had an hour wait. If you fail to get back at these times it is a $150 call out to get you back to your accommodation. All walkers’ names are recorded by the bus companies. If you fail to return a search and rescue party is sent out.

Our bus arrived at 2.50 we were on by three then the heaven’s opened up for a wet trip back. By the time we reached Snowy Waters Lodge for a beer and spa it was all clear skies again.








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